舌尖上的味道_现代散文 |
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舌尖上的味道散文精选发表于2020-06-19 07:55:01归属于现代散文本文已影响人手机版 几年前,听朋友讲内蒙古人招待最尊贵的客人的一道菜——吃羊尾巴,客人把袖子卷到肘部,看着主人的蒙古刀旋转,把羊油脂削成薄片,透明的油脂片贴在客人小臂的内侧,由着你从手掌心开始吸,一直吸到手臂高高举起。饱满的膏腴稍加咀嚼便汁水奔涌,滑溜溜朝喉头而去。这时候,必须再整一口高度的草原白,压住心口的肥腻。朋友是个高明的段子手,把吃羊尾巴的过程讲的绘声绘色,但我一直心存疑惑,这么油腻的东西,一般人恐消受不了。近日读陈晓卿老师的《至味在人间》,终于佐证了朋友的这番招待最尊贵客人美食的描述,让我知道人间尚有如此待客之道。 | she jian shang de wei dao san wen jing shua fa biao yu 2020-06-19 07:55:01gui shu yu xian dai san wen ben wen yi ying xiang ren shou ji ban ji nian qian ,ting peng you jiang nei meng gu ren qiao dai zui zun gui de ke ren de yi dao cai ——chi yang wei ba ,ke ren ba xiu zi juan dao zhou bu ,kan zhao zhu ren de meng gu dao xuan zhuai ,ba yang you zhi xiao cheng bao pian ,tou ming de you zhi pian tie zai ke ren xiao bei de nei ce ,you zhao ni cong shou zhang xin kai shi xi ,yi zhi xi dao shou bei gao gao ju qi 。bao man de gao yu shao jia ju jiao bian zhi shui ben chong ,hua liu liu chao hou tou er qu 。zhe shi hou ,bi xu zai zheng yi kou gao du de cao yuan bai ,ya zhu xin kou de fei ni 。peng you shi ge gao ming de duan zi shou ,ba chi yang wei ba de guo cheng jiang de hui sheng hui se ,dan wo yi zhi xin cun yi huo ,zhe me you ni de dong xi ,yi ban ren kong xiao shou bu le 。jin ri dou chen xiao qing lao shi de 《zhi wei zai ren jian 》,zhong yu zuo zheng le peng you de zhe fan qiao dai zui zun gui ke ren mei shi de miao shu ,rang wo zhi dao ren jian shang you ru ci dai ke zhi dao 。 |
陈晓卿老师也许不太为世人所知,但他领衔制作的美食纪录片《舌尖上的中国》却是家喻户晓,影响遍及海内外。因对各种食物不加挑剔的喜爱,陈晓卿喜欢钻研街边巷尾小馆子的独门看家菜,喜欢跋山涉水跟着朋友品尝上不了台面的特色江湖菜,十余年游历大江南北,搜寻各类美食,被朋友戏称为“扫街嘴”。通读他的《至味在人间》68篇文章,陈老师缓缓讲述近十余年与美食结缘的故事,写人间烟火中一个个恣意俏皮的小菜,花生、螺蛳、皮皮虾、小面、生蚝等,将原料化作文字,以散文为碗钵,佐以故事人情之盐,把对美食的记忆蒸炒煎炸,似纵横捭阖,又生动有趣。文章从千里之外的江湖到灵魂深处的家乡,从四面八方觅食的扫街嘴到饮食变迁的沧海桑田,特像一个久违的吃货朋友坐在你面前,口水飞溅、眉飞色舞地跟你分享他的得意发现。 | chen xiao qing lao shi ye hu bu tai wei shi ren suo zhi ,dan ta ling xian zhi zuo de mei shi ji lu pian 《she jian shang de zhong guo 》que shi jia yu hu xiao ,ying xiang bian ji hai nei wai 。yin dui ge chong shi wu bu jia tiao ti de xi ai ,chen xiao qing xi huan zuan yan jie bian hang wei xiao guan zi de du men kan jia cai ,xi huan ba shan she shui gen zhao peng you pin chang shang bu le tai mian de te se jiang hu cai ,shi yu nian you li da jiang na bei ,sou xun ge lei mei shi ,bei peng you hu chen wei “sao jie zui ”。tong dou ta de 《zhi wei zai ren jian 》68pian wen zhang ,chen lao shi huan huan jiang shu jin shi yu nian yu mei shi jie yuan de gu shi ,xie ren jian yan huo zhong yi ge ge zi yi qiao pi de xiao cai ,hua sheng 、luo si 、pi pi ha 、xiao mian 、sheng hao deng ,jiang yuan liao hua zuo wen zi ,yi san wen wei wan bo ,zuo yi gu shi ren qing zhi yan ,ba dui mei shi de ji yi zheng chao jian zha ,shi zong heng bai he ,you sheng dong you qu 。wen zhang cong qian li zhi wai de jiang hu dao ling hun shen chu de jia xiang ,cong si mian ba fang mi shi de sao jie zui dao yin shi bian qian de cang hai sang tian ,te xiang yi ge jiu wei de chi huo peng you zuo zai ni mian qian ,kou shui fei jian 、mei fei se wu de gen ni fen xiang ta de de yi fa xian 。 |
陈老师满怀真诚,不做作,坦坦荡荡讲述了人与食物的基本关系,从一条美食街、一个城区餐饮业的兴衰到中华美食变迁史,落脚到对故乡美食的记忆,书里满溢热乎乎的人间烟火气,记录他念念不忘的家乡味道,在江湖偶遇的人间至味,诚如“食神”蔡澜先生所言:“世界上最极致的口味永远是妈妈做的美食味道。”这不由让我想起了为美食而辞官的一段历史佳话。 | chen lao shi man huai zhen cheng ,bu zuo zuo ,tan tan dang dang jiang shu le ren yu shi wu de ji ben guan ji ,cong yi tiao mei shi jie 、yi ge cheng ou can yin ye de xing cui dao zhong hua mei shi bian qian shi ,la jiao dao dui gu xiang mei shi de ji yi ,shu li man yi re hu hu de ren jian yan huo qi ,ji lu ta nian nian bu wang de jia xiang wei dao ,zai jiang hu ou yu de ren jian zhi wei ,cheng ru “shi shen ”cai lan xian sheng suo yan :“shi jie shang zui ji zhi de kou wei yong yuan shi ma ma zuo de mei shi wei dao 。”zhe bu you rang wo xiang qi le wei mei shi er ci guan de yi duan li shi jia hua 。 |
张翰,吴江人。据《晋书·张翰传》记载:“张翰在洛,因见秋风起,乃思吴中苑菜莼羹、鲈鱼脍,曰:‘人生贵适意尔,何能羁宦数千里以要名爵乎?’遂命驾而归。”这故事,被世人传为佳话,曾有人为之写下四句诗:君不见吴中张翰称达生,秋风忽忆江东行。且乐生前一杯酒,何须身后千载名。“莼鲈之思”,也就成了思念故乡的代名词。因为思乡,怀念家乡的美食,竟然辞官回乡,这是历史上真实的故事,家乡美食的味道也是留存在每个“吃货”脑海中最深的记忆。 | zhang han ,wu jiang ren 。ju 《jin shu ·zhang han chuan 》ji zai :“zhang han zai luo ,yin jian qiu feng qi ,nai sai wu zhong yuan cai chun geng 、lu yu kuai ,yue :‘ren sheng gui kuo yi er ,he neng ji huan shu qian li yi yao ming jue hu ?’sui ming jia er gui 。”zhe gu shi ,bei shi ren chuan wei jia hua ,ceng you ren wei zhi xie xia si gou shi :jun bu jian wu zhong zhang han chen da sheng ,qiu feng hu yi jiang dong hang 。ju le sheng qian yi bei jiu ,he xu shen hou qian zai ming 。“chun lu zhi sai ”,ye jiu cheng le sai nian gu xiang de dai ming ci 。yin wei sai xiang ,huai nian jia xiang de mei shi ,jing ran ci guan hui xiang ,zhe shi li shi shang zhen shi de gu shi ,jia xiang mei shi de wei dao ye shi liu cun zai mei ge “chi huo ”nao hai zhong zui shen de ji yi 。 |
陈老师的“吃货”朋友阿宽说过,世界最好的厨师都是用脑子做菜,用鳃呼吸。我深以为然。作家野夫曾在《掌瓢黎爷》写到,黎爷在监狱和别人比赛做拍黄瓜这道菜,黎爷说:拍黄瓜是家常菜,窍诀尽在一拍中。你们用铁刀拍,沾上了铁腥味。我用木板拍,清爽皆在,差距就在这里。另外,你们的大蒜是剁的,我的是拍的。你们放的是油泼辣子,我撒的是干辣椒面。就这一道,足够你们受用一辈子。黎爷的自信正是源于他是用心用脑做菜。 | chen lao shi de “chi huo ”peng you a kuan shui guo ,shi jie zui hao de chu shi dou shi yong nao zi zuo cai ,yong sai hu xi 。wo shen yi wei ran 。zuo jia ye fu ceng zai 《zhang piao li ye 》xie dao ,li ye zai jian yu he bie ren bi sai zuo pai huang gua zhe dao cai ,li ye shui :pai huang gua shi jia chang cai ,qiao jue jin zai yi pai zhong 。ni men yong tie dao pai ,zhan shang le tie xing wei 。wo yong mu ban pai ,qing shuang jie zai ,cha ju jiu zai zhe li 。ling wai ,ni men de da suan shi duo de ,wo de shi pai de 。ni men fang de shi you po la zi ,wo sa de shi gan la jiao mian 。jiu zhe yi dao ,zu gou ni men shou yong yi bei zi 。li ye de zi xin zheng shi yuan yu ta shi yong xin yong nao zuo cai 。 |
古人云:良厨如良相,治大国如烹小鲜。几千年历史长河中,一定有身怀安邦治国旷世之才之士,不幸埋没风尘,不得已做了厨子,日日在灶头的烈火硝烟里金戈铁勺,排兵布阵,辗转了余生。但小隐隐于野,大隐隐于市,窃以为像陈老师文章中的老吕、不知名的夫妇,像野夫书中描述的黎爷,恬淡地栖身闹市,随便做点家常饭菜,算不上珍馐,却特别下饭,你若有幸,与一两知己,寻乡间小路,走进这样的蝇头小馆,美美吃上一顿,浅饮两杯,该作何感想?我想这应该是最原汁原味原生态的美食尚在人家,那就让我们且吃且享受吧。 | gu ren yun :liang chu ru liang xiang ,zhi da guo ru peng xiao xian 。ji qian nian li shi chang he zhong ,yi ding you shen huai an bang zhi guo kuang shi zhi cai zhi shi ,bu xing mai mei feng chen ,bu de yi zuo le chu zi ,ri ri zai zao tou de lie huo xiao yan li jin ge tie shao ,pai bing bu zhen ,nian zhuai le yu sheng 。dan xiao yin yin yu ye ,da yin yin yu shi ,qie yi wei xiang chen lao shi wen zhang zhong de lao lv 、bu zhi ming de fu fu ,xiang ye fu shu zhong miao shu de li ye ,tian dan de qi shen nao shi ,sui bian zuo dian jia chang fan cai ,suan bu shang zhen xiu ,que te bie xia fan ,ni re you xing ,yu yi liang zhi ji ,xun xiang jian xiao lu ,zou jin zhe yang de ying tou xiao guan ,mei mei chi shang yi du ,jian yin liang bei ,gai zuo he gan xiang ?wo xiang zhe ying gai shi zui yuan zhi yuan wei yuan sheng tai de mei shi shang zai ren jia ,na jiu rang wo men ju chi ju xiang shou ba 。 |
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