| 茶马古道：想象一匹滇马歇脚在滇藏古道的小小驿站踩踏着漫漶莫辨的马蹄窝难免会浮想联翩：一匹矮脚滇马是以怎样的耐力驮运茶叶、布匹和盐巴驮运种族、宗教和文明穿过山，越过岭，涉过沟壑在风雨寒暑中呼嘘毒疠，来回往复用蹄声和骨骸书写了这部深深勒进高原腹地的滇藏贸易史每一块不再规整的条石都蚀刻着“马脚子”的吆喝和“亮子”的微芒。但在导游手册的讲解中历史照例被轻描淡写删繁就简后却更显波诡云谲这被旅游业从尘埃莽草的遮覆中截取的一小段贸易史标本在日复一日的颓圮中无声演绎着千年茶马互市文明交融的风云谁在耐心聆听，谁在潜心披阅这重新裸露的历史章节谁在这历史的细节，马蹄窝的缄默中耐心捡拾一匹滇马悠远的蹄声注：“马脚子”，即赶马的人。“亮子”，马帮俚语，指灯。茶山青绿从啜饮一盅茶汤时的唇舌回韵齿颊留香到啜饮一座茶山时的眼眸清明深镌于感官的美好记忆，真实，具体，幽微我羞于承认自己有什么形而上的体验我信任感官，唇舌齿颊不会负我一双病眼更不会诓我——缓坡之上蜿蜒着一垄垄台地茶的柔和线条和樟树球形树冠的散漫点缀构成视觉的主体这样的视觉构成有别于纯粹的田园也有别于纯粹山野。当它与远景中的铅色云团深蓝山峦和灰白建筑统一成山水与风俗兼具的画面，我要做的就只是放纵感官：当一簇阳光落在缓坡上在阴暗的画面上抹出一痕狭长跳跃的光斑一场视觉的酣饮才渐入佳境——茶山青绿。但它不需要一首赞美诗它只需要我诚实的感官反应。它终究要在我颓败的肺腑中留下一座青绿茶山穿过一小片桫椤树林我是否可以理解为我正在穿过恐龙时代？在一点八亿年后某个多雾的上午披覆着热带雨林的潮湿，我穿过一小片桫椤树林。虽然只用了几分钟但我似乎已经走失得够远——在一种致密的原始秩序面前我仍有不及收敛的躁动，我仍是喧嚣的一部分并不和谐的画面是：一个现代人和被称为活化石的植物站在一起尽量屛住了呼吸，却仍在大口喘气我无法抑制自己的现代属性莫名错愕于所见的木本蕨类原始静穆的风仪在物竞天择中尽处劣势，却又相安无虞这历经亿年而孑遗的柔韧植物似乎不屑揣摩我的错愕究竟有何意义和众多游人无异，我忙于用手机拍下这濒危物种致密排列的羽状枝叶。我的认知显然局限于一种植物学理性而不是一种信赖或忧虑的感性。我不能把它的静穆解释为某种矜持甚或敌意——它是多么舒展和温柔2019.7 | cha ma gu dao ：xiang xiang yi pi dian ma xie jiao zai dian cang gu dao de xiao xiao yi zhan cai ta zhao man huan mo bian de ma ti wo nan mian hui fu xiang lian pian ：yi pi ai jiao dian ma shi yi zen yang de nai li duo yun cha xie 、bu pi he yan ba duo yun chong zu 、zong jiao he wen ming chuan guo shan ，yue guo ling ，she guo gou he zai feng yu han shu zhong hu shi du li ，lai hui wang fu yong ti sheng he gu hai shu xie le zhe bu shen shen le jin gao yuan fu de de dian cang mao yi shi mei yi kuai bu zai gui zheng de tiao dan dou shi ke zhao “ma jiao zi ”de yao he he “liang zi ”de wei mang 。dan zai dao you shou ce de jiang jie zhong li shi zhao li bei qing miao dan xie shan fan jiu jian hou que geng xian bo gui yun jue zhe bei lv you ye cong chen ai mang cao de zhe fu zhong jie qu de yi xiao duan mao yi shi biao ben zai ri fu yi ri de tui pi zhong mo sheng yan yi zhao qian nian cha ma hu shi wen ming jiao rong de feng yun shei zai nai xin ling ting ，shei zai qian xin pi yue zhe chong xin luo lou de li shi zhang jie shei zai zhe li shi de xi jie ，ma ti wo de jian mo zhong nai xin jian she yi pi dian ma you yuan de ti sheng zhu ：“ma jiao zi ”，ji gan ma de ren 。“liang zi ”，ma bang li yu ，zhi deng 。cha shan qing lu cong chuai yin yi zhong cha shang shi de chun she hui yun chi jia liu xiang dao chuai yin yi zuo cha shan shi de yan mou qing ming shen juan yu gan guan de mei hao ji yi ，zhen shi ，ju ti ，you wei wo xiu yu cheng ren zi ji you shen me xing er shang de ti yan wo xin ren gan guan ，chun she chi jia bu hui fu wo yi shuang bing yan geng bu hui kuang wo ——huan po zhi shang wan yan zhao yi long long tai de cha de rou he xian tiao he zhang shu qiu xing shu guan de san man dian chuo gou cheng shi jiao de zhu ti zhe yang de shi jiao gou cheng you bie yu chun cui de tian yuan ye you bie yu chun cui shan ye 。dang ta yu yuan jing zhong de qian se yun tuan shen lan shan luan he hui bai jian zhu tong yi cheng shan shui yu feng su jian ju de hua mian ，wo yao zuo de jiu zhi shi fang zong gan guan ：dang yi cu yang guang la zai huan po shang zai yin an de hua mian shang ma chu yi hen xia chang tiao yue de guang ban yi chang shi jiao de han yin cai jian ru jia jing ——cha shan qing lu 。dan ta bu xu yao yi shou zan mei shi ta zhi xu yao wo cheng shi de gan guan fan ying 。ta zhong jiu yao zai wo tui bai de fei fu zhong liu xia yi zuo qing lu cha shan chuan guo yi xiao pian suo luo shu lin wo shi fou ke yi li jie wei wo zheng zai chuan guo kong long shi dai ？zai yi dian ba yi nian hou mou ge duo wu de shang wu pi fu zhao re dai yu lin de chao shi ，wo chuan guo yi xiao pian suo luo shu lin 。sui ran zhi yong le ji fen zhong dan wo shi hu yi jing zou shi de gou yuan ——zai yi chong zhi mi de yuan shi zhi xu mian qian wo reng you bu ji shou lian de zao dong ，wo reng shi xuan ao de yi bu fen bing bu he xie de hua mian shi ：yi ge xian dai ren he bei chen wei huo hua dan de zhi wu zhan zai yi qi jin liang bing zhu le hu xi ，que reng zai da kou chuan qi wo mo fa yi zhi zi ji de xian dai shu xing mo ming cuo e yu suo jian de mu ben jue lei yuan shi jing mu de feng yi zai wu jing tian ze zhong jin chu lie shi ，que you xiang an mo yu zhe li jing yi nian er jie wei de rou ren zhi wu shi hu bu xie chuai ma wo de cuo e jiu jing you he yi yi he zhong duo you ren mo yi ，wo mang yu yong shou ji pai xia zhe bin wei wu chong zhi mi pai lie de yu zhuang zhi xie 。wo de ren zhi xian ran ju xian yu yi chong zhi wu xue li xing er bu shi yi chong xin lai huo you lv de gan xing 。wo bu neng ba ta de jing mu jie shi wei mou chong jin chi shen huo di yi ——ta shi duo me shu zhan he wen rou 2019.7 |
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